Scoring good waves all to oneself or in a small group isn’t as easy as it used to be (in case you haven’t noticed!). With the advent of the internet and its slew of wave cams and forecasts, today’s surfer is forever hard pressed to get the goods all to themselves. Try as they may, other surfers just keep popping out of the woodwork at every turn. It’s all a bit disconcerting, yes, but a humbling reminder that the surfing population will only continue to grow while surf spots and waves remain fixed, finite resources. With the floating zoo sideshow in full effect at many of our favorite surf breaks, surfers are left to their own devices and methodologies to score waves and maintain sanity in the ever challenging, competitive conditions (See Localism). If only there were more waves to go around, less surfers shoulder hopping, or dare we even say less surfers!? While we won’t hold our breath on that last one happening anytime soon, surfers who bide their time can take solace in those rare moments when the circus leaves town, the kids go back to school, and the summer rental tourists pack it in for the season. Note – (That last sick cutback sequence you just did followed by 3 to the beach was not ignored. It was most assuredly observed & critiqued by every frothing surfer in the parking lot and wave cam jockey from here to the valley. Rest assured they’re packing their boards and on their way to join you in the lineup. Surf, surf, everyday surf!!!)
For the modern day surfer, scoring uncrowded surf is an illusive and trying endeavor to say the least. Short of paddling out down the beach to subpar waves or taking a far flung and oft times expensive surf trip, surfing locally and dealing with the crowds is the only option we have. Lo and behold, after enduring so many crowded sessions complete with paddle battles, back paddling, and copious amounts of stink-eye, eventually a day dawns where by cosmic forces of chance the local lineups thin out and uncrowded surf conditions reign. It is rare occasions like these that are cause for unadulterated celebration for the ever diligent surfer. As if in some alternative universe straight out of the Twilight Zone, the surfer may initially enter into a mild state of shock at their newfound good luck. They can’t help but second guess their enviable position. While they gorge themselves on the set waves of their choice, the surfer will mutter to themselves or a bro within earshot, “where is everybody?” knowing full well that they don’t want to know the answer or risk jinxing their amazingly uncrowded surf session. Periodically the surfer will frenetically scan the beach half expecting a mutant army of surf starved surfers to appear any minute around the bend like a zombie scene straight out of the movie “Night of the Living Dead”. If it’s really firing the surfers’ mind might start to play tricks on them such as, “was there a shark attack here?”; “am I asleep and only dreaming this?”; or “wow, I guess all that sewage runoff from the recent rain we just had really could be cause for contracting Hepatitis, super!” At the end of the day, the surfer will revel in their good fortune of getting it good without the hassles of a crowded lineup. This will of course be brought to every other surfer’s attention that wasn’t there in the form of more shameless bragging about scoring epic surf. This in turn will let the cat out of the bag on the uncrowded surf sitch and the next day will find 50+ eager surfers circumventing the lineup on a rumor that it was firing yesterday with nobody out. “Hmmmmm…..Might want to get it while the getting is good!! Crowds suck bro!!”
Wilbur Kookmeyer was a much beloved cartoon character created by animator Bob Penuelas in the early 80’s. Wilbur first appeared in a more obscure comic strip known as “Maynard and the Rat” but quickly got his own gig starring in a 2 page animated spread in Surfer Magazine spanning from 1986 – 2006. The Wilbur Kookmeyer animated series was an overnight success amongst the surfing community. It took a gawky, buck toothed, bundle of loser denial and made him into the uncontested icon of “all things kook” for a generation of surfers. With his animated tales of kook-a-mania spreading far and wide across the land, Wilbur was so utterly “uncool” that he quickly transcended the gap into uber cool status! It was a social phenomenon much like the current popularity of wearing wretchedly tight black tapered jeans. Each new animation maintained the reliable yet addictive formula of Wilbur spouting off some big game about his surfing skills only to see him eat it hard, arms flailing in the final slides of the animation. It was all too predictable yet so gratifying at the same time for the fully captivated surfer. The Wilbur Kookmeyer comic series became so popular that the word ‘Wilbur’ is now a permanent fixture in every surfer’s lingo in the likes of “kook”, “barney”, and “haole to the max” to denote a proficient lack of style and surfing skill. Just recite – “Geez, there were a bunch of Wilburs out there in the lineup today!!” There ya go!!
The rise of Wilbur Kookmeyer’s popularity is perhaps unrivaled to this day in the echelon of surf animation. But while the Kookmeyer series might have seemed on the surface to be just another campy comic strip there was more than meets the eye. Beyond its scope of masterful animation and witty dialogue, the Wilbur Kookmeyer series was actually a satire of the rapidly commercializing surf industry and the desecration of the soul and individuality of the sport of surfing for profits sake. Wilbur personified and poked fun at all the wannabee surfers trickling into the surf scene in the mid-late 80’s as it suddenly became hip to be a surfer and look the part of the surfing lifestyle. He provided a humorous outlet for surfers to vent their frustrations at the rapidly homogenizing surf industry and the puka shell touting wannabees that bought into it. The underlying message of the comic strip was that surfing is not to be bought or sold and that if you still subscribe to that ideology, well then you’re just as Wilbur as Wilbur can be!! On a lighter note, the comic series was a genius composition of surf doodlery. Each animation was a work of art in its own rite. It helped to inspire a generation of burgeoning surf doodlers and bored out of their mind students to create works of surf art in their notebooks, trapper keepers, and paper bag covered school books rather than fall into a comatose induced drooling state upon their desk. Unofficial contests were held during lunch breaks to see who could draw the raddest waves and wanderlust surf imagery in the likeness of the Wilbur Kookmeyer strip’s exotic animated locales. It wasn’t until years later that animator Penuelas actually showed us the way by posting his “how to draw a cartoon wave- the Wilbur Kookmeyer way” series. Now there is no excuse to not be grinning ear to ear like a kindergartner when you post your latest surf doodle on the fridge!! Wilbur Kookmeyer – A Surfing Legend!!
Paddling out is at the core of any good surf session. It’s the tenacious and repetitive cycle that delivers a surfer from the landlocked confines of the beach and into the lineup to score some much needed surf. It’s a take it or leave it enterprise where the waves seen feathering on the outside are all the fuel a surfer needs to get out there and get some! Standing there on the beach, surfboard in hand – paddling out becomes the proverbial dangling of the carrot at the end of the stick for any surfer with a set of surf stoked eyes on the prize. It’s a means to an end that with some luck, agility, and experience will deliver the surfer out to the lineup and into some adrenaline pumping waves as quickly and effortlessly as possible. Now if we could only find a way to hitch a ride on some Jet Ski assist or air drop out of a helicopter into an idyllic tropical surf break in Bali like Andy & Bruce Irons did in Fuel TV’s ad campaign things would be so much easier. Hmmm… not betting Christmas on that one!
Paddling out is a highly variable experience for the surfer depending on when and where they choose to surf. Unlike other sports where the playing field remains static, in surfing, no two go-outs are ever the same. Paddling out requires dedication and mental as well as physical stamina to surmount the ever changing dynamics of the sea. Erratic cleanup sneaker sets, rip tides, and angry walls of whitewater are all potential game changers of the paddling out experience. One day conditions can be “surfer meets lazy river” where nary a hair gets wet and the next can produce an all out hell on earth paddle battle against detonating death walls of white water with your name on it! When conditions are large n’ in charge, the paddling out game re-writes itself entirely and only those willing to take a few beatings need apply. Paddling out becomes a series of heart thumping scratches for the horizon on par with a Michael Phelp’s Olympic qualifying 250 meter “mad-dash” as large black blobs rear their ugly heads from the depths of the oceanic abyss. It should come as no surprise to the surfer who challenges Mother Nature on her own turf that sooner or later they too shall have to pay the piper! These not so fun lickings can come in any variety of pain and panic inducing packages. One option could be the infamous “having your board ripped out of your hands with a side of rag dolling along the ocean bottom until you can’t breathe so well anymore” scenario. Or perhaps it’s the taunting heartbreak of nearly making it out to the lineup only to be sent packing for the beach as an angry outside canyon set swings your way, unleashing its wrath upon your vulnerable body like a calculated Mr. Miyagi Judo Chop to the head!! (Note -the only real benefit to this scenario is if you just so happened to scratch over that last bomber set wave. This affords you the right to chuckle ever so briefly at all the less fortunate surfers left behind in the meat grinder. Make sure not to laugh too long though – karma’s a biatch!!)
Whether conditions are macking or a mere doggie paddle at the wave pool with Rick Kane, paddling out is here to stay. It’s as much a part of surfing as riding waves, perhaps even more so. In fact, statistically speaking, surfers spend over 50% of their time paddling out and duckdiving with another 44% spent bobbing around in the lineup waiting for waves. The actual riding of waves is only a mere 4 – 6%!! With all the time surfers spend “not” surfing, perhaps some day in some far off existential surfing universe a surfer will compliment another surfer on some “nice paddling” versus catching a “sick wave”? Ok, admittedly not likely – probably just a pipedream born of oxygen deprivation from one too many brutal hold downs!! But for all of paddling’s shortcomings, it does provide a surfer some undeniable bonuses. For instance, it a) gets them into and out to multitudes of waves via their own motive power (i.e. – good exercise!), b) it provides them just the right amount of time to hoot their bros into waves as they scratch over the shoulder, c) gives the surfer time to curse themselves for kooking it on their last wave, d) allows them time to flaunt a shit eating grin for all to see as a testament to their freshly snagged epic ride, and perhaps most importantly, e) occasionally provides views like these! When in doubt, paddle out!!
Looking for a less robotic, more personalized surf forecast to add to your list of favorite surf websites to check out? Well, if you happen to live and surf in the Southern California area or are just planning a surf trip to visit our beaches, do yourself a favor and check out Adam Wright’s surf forecast blog. We’ve been following it for over a year now and are thoroughly stoked on the service. SoCalSurf.Com is updated almost daily, it’s highly accurate, and for those on a budget (who isn’t these days?) it’s FREE!!! The site now even breaks out customized surf forecasts for each specific surf region stretching from San Diego to Santa Barbara with intermittent commentary on points north, south, and globally. Perhaps the best part of checking out SoCalSurf.com’s surf forecasts besides getting dialed into the surf is laughing your ass off at Adam’s witty humor and smart ass commentary woven into each forecast post. It’s almost enough to make you crack a smile when the forecast heading reads a dismal and disconcerting: “Thursday’s Leftover’s – Hmmm smells like week old meatloaf“!!
Surfers love the satisfaction that comes from scoring epic surf. It rejuvenates the soul and replenishes the stoke meter like no other. Fully spent and noodle armed, the surfer basks in the afterglow of an amazing surf sesh as they fondly reflect on their cornucopia of epic rides. Bit by bit, the message that materializes to the surfer becomes glaringly obvious – they just got it good, really good! The feeling of euphoria overwhelms the surfer like a powerful, tranquilizing drug. Reluctant to call it last call on this après-surf party, the surfer clings to the only tool they have left in the arsenal – shamelessly bragging to others about how much they just scored! It’s a gloat fest feeding frenzy of epic proportions! No one will be spared the wrath of the bragging surfer’s self-promoting propaganda. Clear and simple, the message to all other surfers unlucky enough to bear witness to these attention seeking mongers rings loud and clear – “I scored and YOU MISSED OUT!!”
One might think that scoring epic surf in and of itself would be enough to satisfy even the most discerning surfer. But sometimes the sheer enjoyment of scoring great surf just doesn’t cut it. For these surfers, they need more, they need recognition! Determined to get their day in the sun, these surfers cannot help but browbeat their fellow bros about how they just missed the most epic session ever (really???) or how waking up for the dawn patrol decidedly makes them a better person. To make matters worse, in this technological age of hand held PDA devices and Web 2.0 social networking applications, no surfer is immune to the après-surf “You Missed Out” telecast. The surfer will showcase their “all-time” surf sesh like a guest plug on the Jay Leno Show to all of their Facebook and Twitter friends as well as unleashing a barrage of voicemails and celebratory texts only to those bros who were NOT present. It’s an unabashed cry for attention on the part of the bragging surfer which in no uncertain terms implies “I’m kind of a big deal!” and subsequently “Buy My Poster!!” Inevitably on the day after scoring epic surf, the surfer will unleash their final ace in the hole while checking the waves. When questioned by an unknowing surfer with a friendly “howsit look out there?” the response will ALWAYS be the quintessential surfer response of “it’s o.k., but you should have been here yesterday. It was Sooooo good!” Next time, do yourself a favor and don’t bother to ask! Rest assured you already know the answer.
(*Note - When in the presence of a gloating surfer, do not attempt to impart your own story or embellish upon your most recent crappy surf sesh down the street as this will get you nowhere. When in doubt, make up an excuse as to why you don’t have time to hear about their “all-time” surf sesh and run!! If not, prepare to grit your teeth and settle in for a nice 20 minute infomercial on how they scored, you didn’t, and how you should really get your priorities straight. If things get serious, they might even hand you a burned disc containing all of the photographic evidence of their sesh or invite you over to their house to watch the video. Sweet!!!??? Make a mental note to pay them back tenfold come your next surf trip. After all, sharing is caring!!!)
Hawaii honors its greatest surfing legends: Duke Kahanamoku, Eddie Aikau, Rell Clyde Aikau, Ben Aipa, Mitchell Alapa, Derek Ho, and Buffalo Kalolo‘okalani Keaulana. Find out more here at Surfer Magazine.
Bede Durbidge surfed the heat of his life today at Snapper Rocks to progress into the fourth round of the Quiksilver Pro, and the perennial underdog made a few fans in the process.
For the modern day surfer, scoring uncrowded surf is an illusive and trying endeavor to say the least. Short of paddling out down the beach to subpar waves or taking a far flung and oft times expensive surf trip, surfing locally and dealing with the crowds is the only option we have. Lo and behold, after enduring so many crowded sessions complete with paddle battles, back paddling, and copious amounts of stink-eye, eventually a day dawns where by cosmic forces of chance the local lineups thin out and uncrowded surf conditions reign. It is rare occasions like these that are cause for unadulterated celebration for the ever diligent surfer. As if in some alternative universe straight out of the Twilight Zone, the surfer may initially enter into a mild state of shock at their newfound good luck. They can’t help but second guess their enviable position. While they gorge themselves on the set waves of their choice, the surfer will mutter to themselves or a bro within earshot, “where is everybody?” knowing full well that they don’t want to know the answer or risk jinxing their amazingly uncrowded surf session. Periodically the surfer will frenetically scan the beach half expecting a mutant army of surf starved surfers to appear any minute around the bend like a zombie scene straight out of the movie “Night of the Living Dead”. If it’s really firing the surfers’ mind might start to play tricks on them such as, “was there a shark attack here?”; “am I asleep and only dreaming this?”; or “wow, I guess all that sewage runoff from the recent rain we just had really could be cause for contracting Hepatitis, super!” At the end of the day, the surfer will revel in their good fortune of getting it good without the hassles of a crowded lineup. This will of course be brought to every other surfer’s attention that wasn’t there in the form of more shameless bragging about scoring epic surf. This in turn will let the cat out of the bag on the uncrowded surf sitch and the next day will find 50+ eager surfers circumventing the lineup on a rumor that it was firing yesterday with nobody out. “Hmmmmm…..Might want to get it while the getting is good!! Crowds suck bro!!”
One might think that scoring epic surf in and of itself would be enough to satisfy even the most discerning surfer. But sometimes the sheer enjoyment of scoring great surf just doesn’t cut it. For these surfers, they need more, they need recognition! Determined to get their day in the sun, these surfers cannot help but browbeat their fellow bros about how they just missed the most epic session ever (really???) or how waking up for the 
